Violins come in a great array of price ranges. Many of the very inexpensive ones ($100 to $200) are not worth carrying home. In the violin shop, they are often referred to as VSOs -"Violin Shaped Objects." Keep in mind that you really do get what you pay for.
Unfortunately, many excited students and distraught parents are faced with the realization that the violin they have just bought will take over $150 worth of work just to make it playable, and then their instrument will only be worth about $100.
A good quality, new European violin outfit for the beginning student will retail in the neighborhood of $650 to $850. "Step-up" instruments will be in the retail range of $1,000 to $3,500, and professional instruments are generally $5,000 and up.
Unlike other instruments, good violins do not depreciate in value, so buying used will not necessarily save you a lot of money. A good option to outright purchase, especially for players of fractional-sized instruments, is instrument rental.
WHAT SIZE DO I NEED?
sizing information from www.childrensmusicworkshop.com
RENTING A VIOLIN
Good rental programs will allow you to apply at least part of the rent toward the eventual purchase of an instrument, and will allow you to exchange sizes as necessary. Many will charge a maintenance fee that covers repairs for any damage that may occur (this has been a very valuable feature for some students of mine!)
Violins can be rented locally or through online vendors. Local rentals are usually less of a hassle if repairs need to be made, because online vendors often insist that the violin be repaired by their own luthier. This involves shipping the violin back and forth, usually at your own expense of time and money.
I have had positive, personal experience with Young Musicians in Keller and with Dallas Strings. They have slightly different price points and rental/repair policies, so be sure to educate yourself by reading the fine print.
Buy from a dealer who will allow a trial period during which you may take the violin to a luthier for inspection, play the violin in different settings, and get outside opinions. A seller who will not allow these things is one who should be politely avoided. Involve your teacher in the selection process - she can be a valuable neutral resource.
It is not uncommon for teachers to encourage their students to purchase used violins because they have "mellowed out" or been "played in." This phenomenon is real! Good violins do get better as they are played, however for a beginning student the noticeable difference is negligible. If you choose to purchase a used instrument, you should seriously consider getting it from a reputable dealer.
Repairs can be very costly, and are often necessary on old instruments that are found in flea markets, Grandma's attic, etc. If an individual is offering an instrument for sale, you should have someone who is familiar with violins look at it before you buy. Violin shops will most likely charge a small fee for this service, but it will save you a lot of problems to get some expert advice. Reputable dealers will allow you to take a violin home for a week on a trial basis, so you can play it in different environments and get some outside opinions (your teacher’s input may be very valuable here).
Expect to spend some money on refurbishing a used violin. Replacing the strings, bridge, and bow hair and making other minor adjustments can cost $100 or more. Crack repairs can be very expensive.
There are several options for purchasing new violins: your local music store, a mail order company, a violin shop, or a private individual selling a used instrument.
One of the things you should consider is availability of service. Buying your instrument from a local dealer that has a trained violin repair person on staff is an advantage because adjustments or repairs may be needed from time to time. If you choose to buy a violin from a mail order firm, be sure that service is available locally.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Violins are made of wood, and wood is affected by the environment. Because of this it is important to examine the body of any violin (new or used) to make sure that there are no cracks in the top or back.
Well repaired cracks in the top of an older instrument may not be a problem (Seek the advice of a teacher or violin maker), but cracks in the back of an instrument can depreciate its value as much as 75 percent.
Examine the ribs (sides) of the violin to make sure that they are not bulging out beyond the edges of the top or back. This happens because wood that is not well seasoned will shrink noticeably when it dries out.
As the top and back shrink, the ribs begin to bulge. Most instruments of reasonable quality do not have this problem, because close attention is given to curing the wood properly. It is also not uncommon to find this problem in used instruments over 50 years old regardless of quality.
If everything else is in good order, this may not be cause to reject a used violin, but consult your violin repair shop concerning repair costs before making such a purchase.
Check to make sure that the neck of the violin is straight. Occasionally an instrument is made wrong, and somehow slips through the adjusting process unnoticed.
Make sure the bridge is centered between the f-holes, then sight up the fingerboard to see if it aligns with the bridge. If the bridge must be off-set toward one side or the other to make the strings and fingerboard line up you have a problem.
"Set up" on violins is very important. This includes proper bridge and string nut fitting so that the strings are a proper height from the fingerboard, fingerboard planing to make sure the strings don't buzz, peg fitting so the pegs turn smoothly and stay in place, and setting the soundpost for proper tone adjustment, etc.
As a general rule, pegs should be made of ebony or rosewood because most other woods are not dense enough to retain the smooth roundness that is necessary for easy tuning.
Some music stores do not set up their own instruments, but well-known brands generally are shipped in good adjustment. Many violin shops do their own "set ups," and work to meet the desires and specifications of local teachers and professional players.
Most violin outfits will have a case and bow included in the price. A fiberglass bow with horse hair is a good bow for beginners and is unlikely to warp or break easily. A good wood bow can add $100 or more to the cost of a beginning violin outfit. Wood bows are preferable for intermediate to advanced players.
For step up violins, you will find the instrument, bow and case priced individually.
